Below you will find links to all of our installation guides, in PDF form. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view these. If you are having trouble viewing them, just send us an email and we can email the PDF file to you. Instructions are included with your products when shipped. All installs should be done by a qualified mechanic or someone with adequate mechanical ability. Do not modify any of our products without consulting with us first, otherwise your warranty will be void and you are responsible for any issues that may arise with the products.
We do not provide instructions for products that are remove and replace products, such as coil springs, shocks, control arms, shackles, end links, etc. If you have specific questions about the installation of those items, please call or email us, or consult the factory service manual.
- 2nd Gen Steering Brace 1994-2002
- 2nd Gen Steering Brace Install Video (customer video)
- 3rd Gen Steering Brace 2003-2008
- 4th Gen Steering Brace 2008.5-2013
- 5th Gen Steering Brace 2014-2021
- 2nd Gen Track Bar Kits (HD or XTB)
- 2nd Gen HD Track Bar Install Video (customer video)
- 3rd and 4th Gen Lifted Track Bar Bracket and Bar Installation
The Most Common Install Issue
By far, the single biggest question we get is about our T style steering kit. If you do not read the instructions and install it exactly as we have described, you will have problems with bumpsteer, play in the steering wheel, and you may end up breaking a pitman arm bolt or breaking the pitman arm itself. If you don't orient the tie rod correctly, it can create all three of these issues. As long as you bolt the tie rod up so that the bend goes out directly in front of the axle, not down towards the ground, and as long as you set your heims so they are not binding up when you tighten the jam nuts, then you won't have any issues and the steering will be much tighter than factory steering. You do have to check the hardware after a couple hundred miles to make sure everything has stayed tight after install. New hardware always loosens up because it stretches, and it has to be retorqued. If you can't keep your jam nuts tight, use red Loctite once the truck has been aligned. And, as the instructions say, do not use an impact wrench on the tapered bolts! They need to be hand-torqued to spec - these aren't some Chinese-made junk TREs, they are solid pieces of 4340 chromoly that are machined on a HAAS CNC lathe to aircraft quality tolerances, they are extremely strong and well-built. Using an air impact on these bolts is asking for trouble because there is no way to monitor the torque, and the vibration can cause the Grade 8 nut to jump threads. If you decide to go against our advice and use an air impact anyway, if you break a bolt and need to get your truck back on the road immediately, you can drill the pitman arm or knuckle out with a 3/4" drill bit and run a Grade 8 bolt instead of the tapered bolt. This is a 20 minute fix that will last forever, and with Grade 8 hardware you can use air tools all you want. :-)
Another common issue that we get a lot of calls about is alignment after installing one of our steering kits. Alignment shops and installers in general have been some of the most difficult people we've dealt with over the last few years, and the only thing we can say is that not everyone who works on Dodge trucks knows a lot about Dodge trucks - especially aftermarket products. Most of our customers are able to install the steering linkage themselves, but you almost always need a professional alignment at some point after the install. When you go to an alignment shop, try to find one that understands 4x4 vehicles and aftermarket steering setups. If they work on a lot of Jeeps, they are probably better than a franchise alignment shop that just hires anybody off the street. When you have an alignment done, tell them that the truck has heim steering and it takes a little longer than factory steering. The tie rod must be removed to adjust the toe. The need to set the toe first, then center the steering wheel. Toe should be zero, or slightly under zero (toed in) - no more than 0.05 degrees or 1/16th of an inch toed in. The heims on the tie rod can be adjusted in half turns to get the measurement exact. Then make sure that they reinstall the tie rod in the correct orientation, torque the jam nuts properly, and reinstall the knuckle bolt hardware correctly. This means if you have our chromoly tapered bolts, they cannot use an impact wrench. They need to be hand tightened and torqued to spec. Once the tie rod is installed, they can set the drag link length to center your steering wheel. We always do this with the truck running so that the power steering pump is applying pressure to the gear box. If you do it without the engine on, you'll have to readjust the drag link to get it exactly centered. But this can be done at home. As long as you don't change the tie rod length, your toe will never come out of alignment. The only other alignment adjustment that can be done is your caster, and we recommend anywhere from 3.8 to 4.2 degrees positive caster on diesel and V10 trucks, and 4.2 to 4.8 degrees positive caster on all V8 models (2nd, 3rd, and 4th gen). The newer radius arm trucks will be the same specs, except make sure you don't have any cross-caster if you have radius arms on the truck. The caster needs to be the same on both sides for radius arm trucks. On 4 link trucks, a small amount of cross-caster is okay to compensate for the crown in the road. Ask for a printout from your alignment shop so you can verify toe and caster before you leave and have them adjust it if needed!